Iceland or Norway for the northern lights: Reykjavík and Tromsø compared

The sky, side by side

Our measure is the usable sky: a night with at least two dark hours in a row and half the sky or more free of cloud, averaged over a cell about 110 km across. It says nothing about solar activity.

Reykjavík wins every month. In October 73% of five-night stays there had at least one usable night, against 47% in Tromsø. In December it is 76% against 50%. January is the closest month, 65% against 57%. By March the gap is wide again: 60% against 31%.

Iceland's northern base, Akureyri, does not change the picture: its five-night figures are below Reykjavík's in every month, at 57% in December and 47% in January. Its geomagnetic latitude, about 65.3 degrees, sits between the two.

This is the only weather evidence we have. We did not research how stable or changeable the weather is in either place, so we make no claim about it.

One correction in Tromsø's favour. Its tours do not stay on the coast. In the Skibotn valley, a common chase direction, 67% of five-night January stays had a usable night, slightly above Reykjavík's 65%. In December Skibotn reached 59%, still well short of Reykjavík's 76%.

Position under the oval

Here Tromsø leads. Its geomagnetic latitude is about 66.6 degrees, close to the average auroral oval, with aurora typically overhead from Kp 1. Reykjavík is at about 64 degrees and typically needs Kp 2. On a quiet night with a clear sky, Tromsø is the better place to be standing.

Tromsø also has polar night from 28 November to 14 January, and 17.1 dark hours a night in December against 15.7 in Reykjavík. Reykjavík is milder: the mean January minimum is about -1.7 C, against -5.3 C.

Access and cost

Reykjavík is easier. Keflavík is Icelandair's hub, with direct flights from Europe and North America. Tromsø is usually reached via Oslo, with a few confirmed seasonal directs. The transfer is the one point for Tromsø: about 20 minutes and 125 NOK, against about 45 minutes and 3,999 ISK for the Flybus (checked 4 October 2026).

Hotels are in the same range: February averages of about USD 201 a night in Reykjavík and about EUR 238 in Tromsø. Tours differ more. The listed Reykjavík bus tour starts from EUR 73.58 for four hours. The listed Tromsø coach chase starts from EUR 146.84 for eight.

Tours and blank nights

In Reykjavík the standard answer to a blank night is a free second attempt. Reykjavik Excursions lets you rebook until you see the aurora, on a ticket valid for two years, with no refund.

Tromsø is less generous. Local operators offer nothing, a 50% discount on another night, or a retry on a big coach valid only for the same season. The listed chase gives a 50% discount on your next activity.

A retry only has value if you have a spare night, in either country. Details are in what happens when the aurora does not show.

Which one we would pick

For a first trip of three or four nights, Reykjavík, between October and December. The sky odds are better, the tour is cheap and a failed night costs you less.

For a week with the aurora as the main purpose, Tromsø in January, with at least two chase nights booked. You are paying for position and for a guide who drives to the gaps.

What else there is to do is listed on each destination page, and that part of the decision is yours. If neither convinces you, Tromsø or Rovaniemi and the best place by the numbers widen the field.